Now let's talk to fellow Paph growers about Fertilizer. Here was my 1st mistake with Fertilizer. Everything I heard and read about Paphs is that they don't need much fertilizer. So, I used DynaGro at 1/2 the label strenght every other watering.

To summarize my conditions again...Fl Lights, spare bedroom, humidifer 24x7, 60's nights winter 70's days...add 10 degrees in Summer.

So, what did I get for using DynaGro at 1/2 strength? Nice VERY light green, to borderline yellow on some, green leaves. Got some decent flowers, but the leaves didn't look good. I increased the DynaGro and it helped a bit.

Recently I switched to the Blue Grow More 20-10-20. And, I'm using it at full strength - 1 tsp - 3 out of every 4 waterings. I run a ton of water through the pots on the 4th watering. I now, primarily, have green leaves!!! But, I may be on the edge of cooking some roots...it's a fine line I'm very slowly learning. According to the "books" I'm using WAY too much...but they're green and growing! No burnt leaf tips either...well some from underwatering a while back...another mistake...

It wasn't until I found out a couple of the larger Paph growers in the area are fertilizing much more than the "literature" states. One even told me to go to double strength if I use DynaGro.

I showed some of the pre-new fertilizer plants to people and the standard response was too much light. Well, that was kindof true, but I have learned using 6 bulbs allows me to use a lot more fertilizer. It's a 3x4 shelf...not the standard 2x4...so I went with 6...had 8 at one time...way too much light! Why? Because I was told you cannot give them too much light with Fl bulbs...WRONG!!! 8) I was also told you can't bloom Catts under them...WRONG!!! I have my own proof now! :)

What do you use? And, how much? And, how often?

One thing I have learned in my short time doing this is no matter what everybody else does :? , it seems things work different for each of us even if we all tried the same thing...because something in our environments will be different. I just have to keep trying things until it works for me....still so much to learn....

Rob

Hi Terp, I'm also a novice, been growing for 2 years. One half of my small collection are species Paphs; the other half are Phals. I'm using Dyna-Gro and Orchidmix ( from Robert's Flower Supply)every other week @1/2 tsp/gal. I flush throughly every 4-5 week and every few months use a 1/2 strength solution of fish emulsion. I'm using a CHC mix based on the Antec recipe for the Paphs. My plants are generally happy, especially after the fish emulsion (but I try to schedule a visit to family or friends the weekend I use it). So far the roots are good and there are no indications of burn on the leaves. I do have difficulty blooming these little suckers but that is because of a NW exposure that I'm finally trying to fix with fl lights. Kevin

I think that the reputation that paphs got for fertilizer intolerance was due to 2 reasons...first, in the past, collected plants were the main source (prior to 1990) for species...secondly, I don't think that growers paid enough attention to pH. I have found that most paphs dislike acidity...I use Pro-Tekt to adjust my pH to about 6.5-6.8. I do not find paphs to be that intlolerant anymore, even the brachy's. I used to use Dyna-Gro 10-5-5, but have since switched- happily- to First Ray's MSU formula...much lower in P, which I feel is unnecesssary...and responsible for the low pH of many fertilzers (phosphoric acid...) My paphs get fertlized every other watering during the growing season...the under lights paphs get it 3 out of 4 waterings. Strap leafed types get twice the dose of the barbata and brachy/parvi types (2 tspns Ray's liduid formula/gallon and 1tsp/gal) My cooler growing species get no fertilizer at all between October and Feb.....Take care, Eric Muehlbauer

One thing I have learned in my short time doing this is no matter what everybody else does :? , it seems things work different for each of us even if we all tried the same thing...because something in our environments will be different. I just have to keep trying things until it works for me....still so much to learn....

Yup, I used to get frustrated when told "I can't tell you how to grow because our conditions differ" but that's absolutely true. The only way to learn is to try it and see what happens.

I generally fertilize at half strength once a week in the growing season. I've backed way off the last couple months and only fertilize at tsp. per gallon once every three weeks or so. So, I'm getting ready to up that again, now that spring is coming on.

I've used a variety of fertilizers but currently am also using Dyna Grow. I have heard many good things about MSU and am thinking about switching to that when I'm out. I also like to use the fish fert, but can't in the winter when I water indoors. It's bad enough in the summer with all the neighborhood cats around! :roll:

I use MSU formula, diluted to 20PPM N rather than the old 100PPM N, simply because I water them multiple times a day. Remember it isn't how much water you give them, it is how often, so I am watering them with a equivalent 100PPM N a day, just at 20PPM N doses.

I noticed the other day that my two divisions of Paph tigrinum developing a little brown spotting towards the tips of the leaves (new growths). I fertilize with Roberts MSU for tapwater at 80-100 ppm nitrogen every other watering. My water quality is very good - pH may be a little low based on what Eric stated above, but not drastically so and TDS is low.

Based on their growth and leaf color, I think they receive nice light, but they are not pushed in this respect - consistent with my understanding of their preferred light level. Since I don't seem to be overfertilizing them (based on above posts), I wonder if I am underwatering them, which maybe is causing build-up in the medium and hence, the spotting? :?

Thanks,

John

I use Robert's FS MSU formula for RO water + a dash of superthrive + Proteckt back to pH 6.5 to 7.0. The superthrive takes the pH to about 4.
On my calcarious species I also add a small amount of Mg hydroxide, which can raise the pH into the low 7's.

I only fertilize 1X per week, but water and spray with RO grade water multiple times per week.

This program works good for my mixed collection, except for the draculas, and a few other pleuros. They get yellow brown leaf tips, and drop buds when I put them on the above program.

Surperthrive lowers pH huh? I didn't need to hear that! Now another thing to worry about... I started using it the beginning of the year. I must get a tester just to have a clue what I'm doing to these poor things...

My "dash" of ST is about a 1/8 - 1/4 teaspoon per gal. (RO grade water, so no buffer except whats in the MSU). And I've seen the pH of the MSU mix drop to 3.8 before adding the proteckt and magox. If you are adding a few drops per gal in a tap water base it may make no difference, but I do reccomend getting a pH tester of some type.

I use an MSU formulation for R/O water once a week. Since increasing the dosage to about 125ppm of N, plants have greened up and are growing more vigorously. I have noticed leaf tip burn only on a very few Phrags(two or three seedlings and a cantakerous old schlimii).

Indoors I water at least twice per week with tap water but only fertilize at 1/2 strength once per week. I'm using Dyna-Gro.

Additionally, I'm using Superthrive at one drop/gallon once per month.

Previously, I was fertilizing EVERY watering at 1/2 strength and got some good leaf burn, especially on Maudiae hybrids and a few complex.

HOW are you all measuring ph? Do you sample the water running through the bottom of the pot or stick the ph stick up and into the media through a hole in the pot?

I'd like to compare my ph to others.

I generally only measure the pH of the fert solution going to the plants. Sometimes I let a pot sit in collected water for about a day after fertilizing to try to get a handle on pot conditions. I have a soil pH tester (as well as the aquatic tester), but I think the results are unreliable in open type mixes, and seem very inconsistent depending on the moisture level in the pot.

I use fish water from my fish tankssss. I have an endless supply. I use regular orchid fertilizer once a month. I get the fish waste straight from the factory.

Fastastic use for recycled fish water, Park Bear! :clap: Give those fish of yours a big 'thumbs up'.

I use MSU formula, diluted to 20PPM N rather than the old 100PPM N, simply because I water them multiple times a day. Remember it isn't how much water you give them, it is how often, so I am watering them with a equivalent 100PPM N a day, just at 20PPM N doses.

Thank you, Steve!

That's an aspect of feeding folks just don't understand. I even liken it to eating 20 100 calorie meals rather than one 2000 calorie glut!

That's an aspect of feeding folks just don't understand. I even liken it to eating 20 100 calorie meals rather than one 2000 calorie glut!

Ray, Welcome!!!

What if you can't water like this though....how do you apply the same idea? Is it possible?

(I'm a big fan of six small meals a day for people! Just a matter of time, of course!)