I need some help to figure out what to do to make these plants grow. I bought a flask in sept 2004. The cross originally from Orchid Zone with the name:
besseae 'Colossal' x'Chili Pepper'
which I recently saw that all of the similar crosses that were advertised at the time now seems to be of blooming size , with flower on SLIPPER ORCHID FORUM and elsewhere too.
-However mine are still tiny plants, maybe 2 inches leaf span if at all.
-They never seem to carry more than one pair of leaves.
-Their trunks are less than toothspick size.
They are in diatomite & perlite about 3 feet distance from the South-east window. By 11, 12 o'clock there would be no direct sun light on them, I give them distilled water, because everytime I fertilizer them, even with a drop of fertilizer per gallon, the bottom leaves would get yellow very fast and I would end up losing those leaves.
Was I wrong, that the crosses that flower now is from an early batch ? or is that normal that they should be in blooming size by a the time they are 1-1/2 year from flask?

Hien

Your right, the plants that you are seeing bloom on the forum could be from an earlier cross.

But I think the media you have the seedlings in might be to dry for besseae. Try adding some chopped sphag and some seedling bark to your mix. So, 1/3 diatomite, 1/3 perlite, 1/3 50% moss/50% bark.

Besseae like to be wet.

Hoe many seedling do oyu have? If you have enough to experiment, divide them in to three batches and try each batch in a different media mix.

As for fetilizer, try seaweed fertilizer in a very low concentration. I find it to be pretty gentle.

Kyle

I concur with Kyle. I would have used 50% sphagnum moss, 25% fine bark and 25% perlite mixture for the Phrag besseae seedlings. Water with very low salt water. I would fertilize it with quarter strength every month and flush out with water the next day. They are fussy plants and they like intermediate condition with light level good for Phals. I would also sit the compot in 1 inch water to keep the moisture level up and keep the medium moist. (Make sure you change the water tray every few days to keep the water fresh.) When you repot them I would fill the pot with 1.5 inches of large perlite. Then I would add a bit of medium and add the seedlings. I would avoid COCONUT HUSK as the salts can cause problems to the Phrag besseae seedlings. Repotting is important to seedling and I repot them twice a year for seedling and it seems to help them. Hope this info helps. Good luck

Paphman910

My bessae flasks are potted into small compots consisting of about 8-10 plants. The mix is about 50% fine fir bark, 25% charcoal and 25% perlite.
I keep this mix very wet, usually watering daily. The plants are grown in a shady location so they don't get strong light while they are little.

I fertilize very lightly and only when I get around to it. These guys don't need a lot of fertilizer and especially if they are dry!
They seem to grow as quickly as any normal phrag hybrid or species.

Hi Kyle, Paphman & Bill

Thanks for the advices.
I will take one or two out of the compost & try the new mix to see what happen (This cross were bought as a mini flask so there is only 8 plantlets in it.)
From what I deduct from all the advises, please confirm that this is what I should do:
-No direct light at all.
-fertilize very lightly and wash it out imediately the next day.
-sit the pot in 1 inch of water & change this water at least once a week.

the follow-up questions are:
-How many leaves should I expect from these seedlings (how many should they normally able to retain in a correct culture)
-What is the normal length of time to reach blooming size in term of months, years
-for the adult besseae, do they get any direct light at all ?

By the way Kyle, if you read this, I think you should have your article on the difference between besseae & dalessandroi published in the AOS.

Hien

"-No direct light at all.
-fertilize very lightly and wash it out imediately the next day.
-sit the pot in 1 inch of water & change this water at least once a week.

the follow-up questions are:
-How many leaves should I expect from these seedlings (how many should they normally able to retain in a correct culture)
-What is the normal length of time to reach blooming size in term of months, years
-for the adult besseae, do they get any direct light at all ?"

I agree generally with the first three points. The plants don't want strong light especially when little. Fertilizer is very light; if you fertilize and let the plants dry out you will get the leaf tips turning dark. I put some of my mature phrags in saucers of water, but the small compots are just watered often and the bottom stays wet. Perhaps in your conditions a saucer will work out great..

When the plants are little you will have 2 leaves and the smaller ones will dry out as the more mature leaves grow. Mature plants can have 4-5 leaves although it's normally less.

The time from flask to blooming size will vary. Some seedlings are quite vigorous and others a bit lethargic. The quickest ones will approach blooming size within 1 1/2 to 2 years.

Adult plants can handle a bit more light, but less light than something like caudatum or sargentianum. The hybrids seem to appreciate a bit less light also. The foliage should be a rich green, not a pale yellow-green. If they are on the yellow side, they are getting too much light.

Thanks so much Bill
This is a lot of help for me.
When I figure out how to post picture I will do so, from what you say, I realize that my plants may get to much sun (They are yellow green)

Hien

Another common thing I would do is to give the seedlings good air circulation to dry off the water from the crown after watering by using a fan. It is important to keep the crown and leaf axil dry before nightfall otherwise rot will occur. I have rotted a few seedling in the past due to water in the crowns. It seems to occur more often with cold night temperature. Do examine your seedlings on a daily basis and if water is in crown use a piece of tissue to absorb the excess water in the crown.

Paphman910

Thanks Paphman

I will remind myself not to water them late, and will check the crown more often.