bwester
April 20th, 2006, 10:17 AM
I was thinking about trying to grow a cyp, but have absolutely no clue where to start. I live in south georgia where it is quite warm. My greenhouse is cooled to not go above 90. What species should I try first? Where should I get it? And how do I not kill it? I would also like to be able to grow it in a pot instead of in the ground. Any help? Thanks.
-blake
fundulopanchax
April 20th, 2006, 02:39 PM
Hi, Blake,
In your area the heat is going to be an issue for raising Cyp's. You are not so far south that you will need to refrigerate them during the winter but the daytime temperature will be a challenge. The easiest species for you to start with would be Cyp formosanum. It grows readily and it lives in a much warmer climate than most Cypripediums. Those of us farther north usually have to grow this species in a pot since it often will break dormancy at the first "warmth" in February or March, then get frozen. Where you are, by the time it breaks dormancy you will be at a time of year when that is fine (and you will likely put it into a greenhouse anyway.
A good growing medium in a pot would be: perlite:coarse sand:coir 40:40:20 by volume. The medium should be allowed to drain but never become completely dry. Fertilizer should be weak, no more that 1/4 strength once every two weeks, or weaker, more often. Among Cypripediums, Cyp formosanum does like a relatively large amount of fertilizer as it grows quite rapidly. If you search Google: "Wilford Neptune Cypripedium" you will see an AOS awarded clone that Dr Neptune grows. If you search: "Cypripedium Baltimore" you will another nice Cyp formosanum that is grown in that very hot climate by Clark Riley with some advice about growing Cyp's in hot climates.
Another species that does well in hot climates is Cyp kentuckiense. This species has the largest flowers among all Cyp's. For this species, you should reduce the amount of perlite to about 25% and increase the amount of sand - they naturally grow in very sandy areas next to rivers.
For the winter, you will want to find a place outside where you can place the pots in a trench and cover with 4-6 inches of leaves (or place them in a refrigerator with the temperature set at 33 - 39 degrees for 3 months). A thick layer is particularly important in your climate to keep the temperatures at an even cool level. Watch for the formosanum to break dormancy and if it does, put it into the greenhouse. The kentuckiense will start sprouting much later, usually in early May here in CT but likely a bit earlier for you - but this is a late-blooming species compared to nearly all other Cyp's.
You will be able to obtain Cyp's this fall - it is too late to ship them now. The lists from suppliers come out in October, although Paul Christian Rare Plants in England usually has his new list up in September. Cyp kentuckiense is readily obtained from several sources - Hillside Nursery in MA has superb plants each fall, for example. Cyp formosanum is amazingly difficult to obtain in the US; you may have to buy from Paul Christian. Even though this species is one of the easiest to grow, it is not easy to propagate from seed and most Cyp keepers, who tend to live in the north, eventually manage to have their adults freeze when they break dormancy, so cuttings are not often available either.
Tom Velardi on this forum keeps Cyps in his very hot climate - I am sure he will have advice as well.
Good luck!
Ron Burch
CT
Tom Velardi
April 20th, 2006, 06:40 PM
Hey Blake,
I rode my bike through Statesboro back in '93 on a bike tour (Chattanooga, TN>Jacksonville, FL). I only remember eating at a diner and sleeping in a motel.
Ah, your topic, sorry. Well Ron of course has your situation pegged. That far south you can vernalize a few species OK provided you keep the plants out of the sun. C. formosanum in my experience is very heat tolerant and indeed C. kentuckiense is as well. Personally, I would plant both outside in the ground in carefully prepared beds, not in pots. Here's why.
Pot culture of Cyps is a delicate business. Maintaining proper soil moisture, nutrient levels, and most importantly, soil temperature is full time work during days that exceed 85F. Two things can happen easily to pot temperatures in a hot climate; they can reach amibient levels and they can even exceed them. That is a serious issue since Cyps really can't tolerate soil temps above the middle 70's for very long. The earth is a great insulator keeping temperatures even. Remember this, it's not Cyp's leaves that need to be cool, but rather the roots. Also, soil moisture will stay more even over longer periods and the real danger of noxious salt build up from fertilizer is regulated by rain leaching them away.
If you really are interested in pot culture, then Ron's cited examples are the best on the net (at least in English!). I use a technique developed here in Japan with some pretty unique materials not generally available in the states. July, August, and September are an endless chore! How to keep those babies cool? Lots of work and attention. This year I'm experimenting with more species in the ground. I think this is a better option.
How do you make a bed? Make it in a high shade area that recieves only dappled sun, never any direct sun. High pine shade is perfect, or even better yet is a northern aspect along a building foundation with no trees. Here light levels are high, but the lack of sun keeps the area cool and relatively moist. Cyps HATE hot and dry conditions. Avoid areas under heavy deciduous tree cover since these may not provide enough light for the plants to bloom. I would dig a trench about 6" deep and fill it with coarse gravel or pure sand to insure drainage. Bed size is up to you, but the bigger, the better (should be no less than 2' square). Around this make a 6"-8" wall of some type: rocks, thick plastic, and even cement blocks will do. The result will be a little pit with drainage at the bottom. Line the SIDES of it (NOT the bottom) with a strong, thick plastic (6 mil or better) and fill the pit with the growing medium. Neither species is particularly finicky, but C. kentuckiense prefers sand and C. formosanum likes a richer soil. Whatever you use, make sure it is absolutely free draining, not ANY of that red Georgia clay should be included!!! Mulch with leaves or pine bark, but not too thick. Fall is the best time to make and plant Cyp beds.
Unless you have a bad drought, rainwater should be sufficient to keep them happy. As Ron said, put a thick layer of leaves over the top in winter (oaks are best since they rot so slowly). Remove them in spring when growth is likely. Be careful! C. formosanum pops very early (even in February depending on the weather).
OK, I promise to shut up now!
Tom