This is a very special Gisela (at least I think so!) - note the intense yellow from the parviflorum parent. This is absent in the majority of clones, rather they are white in place of yellow (strange since neither parent has any white) - see post "Gisela" for most common clone color. There is a clone that is generally a pale yellow without much of the burgundy color that Frosch calls 'Gisela Yellow.' This plant is 5 years of age in the photo, taken in my garden May 2004. In another year or two it should be large enough to pot in the fall so that it may be taken for AOS judging to establish the proposed clone name. This is a remake of Frosch's Gisela and there were only a couple of plants that had this color, which I find extremely attractive, similar in combination to Cyp Hank Small, a cross of two other species. The others were the typical clone color and some were similar to the Gisela Yellow although not as pale as other clones I have seen. The Gisela family of hybrids are extremely hardy in the garden, tolerating a variety of conditions, similar to their parviflorum parent which grows essentially anywhere that winters are cold enough, and not like the macranthos parent which in North America is not a garden plant but rather a pot plant - in the garden the last frost will usually kill the bud. I am trying to propagate this clone by selfing and sib crossing with my other plants but Gisela (and most other Cyp hybrids) are notorious for their poor fertility. I have a few protocorms coming along so we'll see!

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y100/fundulopanchax/Cypripedium/CypripediumGiselaGoldenSunshine17May2004.jpg

Ron Burch
fundulopanchax
Wilton CT

I've dreamed of having cyps in my garden, but I haven't really researched it a lot. Your photo is tempting me to do some more research.

Beautiful shot as usual!

What a beauty! A whole other world of slippers I know nothing about! I look forward to learning more from you and our other Cyp. growers!

Ron,
How long do these cyps take to bloom from flask?

Are you making your own hybrids?

If so, how are you growing all your seedlings?

How effectively can one grow and bloom these plants in potted culture?

As you can guess, I'm really getting intrigued by your photos and stories.

Thanks

A real beauty! Love the deep color!

Hi, Garland,

From sowing in flask many of the species and hybrids will require 5 and sometimes 6 years to bloom. However, it is not unusual that some of the seedlings will bloom as early as 3 years from sowing. I am redoing many hybrids since some are extremely variable in offspring. Most of the offspring available do not live up to maximum potential. Some meristem success is just becoming apparent with Cyps so searching for the best hybrid offspring is becoming worthwhile.

In pot culture there are a number of different approaches - some folks use a highly organic but free-flowing media but most are moving to more inorganic media such as mixes of perlite and sand - a problem with many media is compaction of the media which does not allow adequate drainage, resulting in rotting of the roots. The plants must be watered fairly often in that the roots must not dry. I have been experimenting using tallish pots with the bottom hole sealed with aquarium sealer. Two inches up I drill a few holes. I use a mixture of 50 % sand and 50% coir. The plants have very shallow roots - place them in the pot such that about 2 inches of media fit on the roots. I have found that this system allows enough water to wick up from the "reservoir" to keep the roots in good condition during the summer. In pot culture Cypripediums must be stored in a refrigerator over the winter at 35-40 degrees (this is what I do with my Chinese species) or, the pots may be stored in the ground - I have had good success using a 12 inch deep trench, lined with wire screening - to keep out voles and other critters that love to each Cypripedium buds. The wire makes a convenient cover to the pots as well - over this I place about 6 - 8 inches of leaves that have gone through the shredder. It is VERY important to choose a spot where water does not stand or collect in the winter as this will rot the roots. My own trenches are in a "high" part of the wooded area in the backyard. I put quotes around "high" since it is probably less than a foot higher than the other areas. This cold period is absolutely required and must last at least three months (that is why Cypripediums do not grow in the far south - the winters are too warm.

Cypripedium seedlings are kept in the dark for their first season (in fact light kills them). Once their roots reach about 3 cm in length and they have formed their first growth bud, the seedlings are removed from the agar and stored in the refrigerator at 35 degrees in sealed bags for at least 3 months. After this, they are placed into pots or flats containing mixtures of sand and perlite, and placed into fairly dim light their first year. The flats or pots are then refrigerated during the winter. offspring available do not live up to maximum potential. Some meristem success is just becoming apparent with Cyps so searching for the best hybrid offspring is becoming worthwhile.


Cypripedium seeds are kept in the dark for their first season (in fact light kills them). Once their roots reach about 3 cm in length and they have formed their first growth bud, the seedlings are removed from the agar and stored in the refrigerator at 35 degrees in sealed bags for at least 3 months. After this, they are placed into pots or flats containing mixtures of sand and perlite, and placed into fairly dim light their first year. The flats or pots are then refrigerated during the winter. At about the third year the seedlings are strong enough to put into beds in the garden although some adventurous folks put them into beds the second year. Since I tend to travel a good bit during the week, I need to automate care for the young seedlings so I use flood and drain hydroponics systems with fluorescent lights, all on timers in the basement. I have room for about 1000 seedlings at one time using this system – which is not a lot! In the photo you see 250 Cyp reginae seedlings going into a box to be refrigerated. At the bottom are three seedlings. The roots are about 6 cm in length, you can see the growth buds, a bit less than 1 cm in length at the junction of the roots. A single Cypripedium pod may have 10,000 seeds. What I really need is a big shade house!

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y100/fundulopanchax/Cypripedium/CreginaeSeedlings9Jan2005.jpg

Ron Burch

Ron,
Thanks for all the posts and the information! I have read all the information from Spangle, Frosch, and the others I can find. I'd really like to get into contact with some of the southern growers of cyps to see how it is done in warmer climates. A few questions please...

Are you doing your own flasking?

You have mentioned meristemming in your last post...is this possible with cyps? If so, who is doing it?

I don't know if our winters are long and cold enough here in VA (Zone 7) for these seedlings to winter over outdoors. What temp do you need and for how long? I'm beginning to think that the refrigeration method may be necessary here but I don't think I'll be able to successfully bargain for much refrig space for potted plants!

I'd like to have some of these plants in the ground in prepared beds or in pots but I don't know if it is possible or practical here or not. Can you recommend certain species or hybrids that might work for me?

Also, we have critters in our woods like everyone. I see that some growers are using wire to keep pests out. I'm assuming that the young bud is most susceptable to damage. Do adult plants need protection from deer, squirrels, chipmunks, etc.?

Thanks for all your information. I know everyone is enjoying reading it and seeing your great photos!

Also Ron, are you burying all of your potted plants or are some of them left above ground? For winter vernalization, are you taking the plant out of the pot or are you refrigerating the pot and all?!