I'm curious.
My ecua is liking it and so is the plant Susan just bought. Roots growing out the bottom of that pot, and live moss on the top!
:joy:

If you DO, please indicate what types of Phrags you do this with and why or why not? I would imagine probably not the long petaled species, but wonder if anyone does it with bessseaes and their hybrids.

Thanks for the opinions and information!

I'm curious.
My ecua is liking it and so is the plant Susan just bought. Roots growing out the bottom of that pot, and live moss on the top!
:joy:

If you DO, please indicate what types of Phrags you do this with and why or why not? I would imagine probably not the long petaled species, but wonder if anyone does it with bessseaes and their hybrids.

Thanks for the opinions and information!

Why ? Because it is easier and prevents salt buildup due to drying.
Why not ? Because you can get pythium pretty quickly unless you tret every other month or so. For years, you will not have problems, then suddenly you will start to loose plants, because your growing area is contaminated with pythium eggs.

Why ? Because it is easier and prevents salt buildup due to drying.
Why not ? Because you can get pythium pretty quickly unless you tret every other month or so. For years, you will not have problems, then suddenly you will start to loose plants, because your growing area is contaminated with pythium eggs.

Hmm, never heard of it - is this what you are speaking of?
http://www.rbgsyd.gov.au/conservation_research/pland_pathology_research/Soilborne_plant_diseases/Vietnam_template3/Pythium

Learn something new every day!

i dont have any phrags :( but if i did i would grow them in water :D

I read that website Heather, and it seems that Pythium is soil-borne. Does anyone know if you can avoid pythium problems by using LECA in semi-hydro?

Personally, I don't grow mine in standing water because I don't feel comfortable putting a bunch in a communal tray and saucers take up too much space. If I were to do so (and i know someone would've added this idea anyway), I would grow all in standing water except for the caudatum (long-petalled) types. Just my 2 cents

--Stephen

I read that website Heather, and it seems that Pythium is soil-borne. Does anyone know if you can avoid pythium problems by using LECA in semi-hydro?

I doubt you will be able to avoid all fungal problems. If not pythium, then some other pathogenic fungus. Rotting organic matter is rotting largely due to fungus (and bacteria), most of it not pathogenic. So, if you don't have any root rot, and are using an entirely inorganic medium, then you won't have any problems. At the roots, anyway... *grin*

So, I guess the question is, do you expect to lose any roots in semi-hydro, and if so, what happens when they break down? If you have enough root loss, it won't really matter what is killing them.

Why ? Because it is easier and prevents salt buildup due to drying.
Why not ? Because you can get pythium pretty quickly unless you tret every other month or so. For years, you will not have problems, then suddenly you will start to loose plants, because your growing area is contaminated with pythium eggs.

Hmm, never heard of it - is this what you are speaking of?
http://www.rbgsyd.gov.au/conservation_research/pland_pathology_research/Soilborne_plant_diseases/Vietnam_template3/Pythium

Learn something new every day!

Yes, but it is extremely contagious in hydroponics :
http://www.hydromall.com/grower/pythium_in_hydroponics.html
http://www.eurohydro.com/anglais/pythium_gb.pdf
Pythium is not soil-borne, it can be water-born easily
http://www.davnor.com/articles/publications/bio_other/Extracts_of_Horticulture_Research_and_Development_ Corporati.doc

Many orchid growers think it is "bacterial rot". Orange basal rot in paphs is quite commonly associated with phytophthora and pythium... especially in their root system. Growers seem not to care about proper id, and do not pay a lab for analysis most of the time.

And it is close to protozoa, not fungi, therefore we refer to eggs and so on rather than spores.

I read that website Heather, and it seems that Pythium is soil-borne. Does anyone know if you can avoid pythium problems by using LECA in semi-hydro?

I doubt you will be able to avoid all fungal problems. If not pythium, then some other pathogenic fungus. Rotting organic matter is rotting largely due to fungus (and bacteria), most of it not pathogenic. So, if you don't have any root rot, and are using an entirely inorganic medium, then you won't have any problems. At the roots, anyway... *grin*

So, I guess the question is, do you expect to lose any roots in semi-hydro, and if so, what happens when they break down? If you have enough root loss, it won't really matter what is killing them.

That's the exact opposite !
Intert medium do not have microflora and they are highly conductive to plant pathogens. Furthermore some fungus that live on organic matter will attack the roots of the plants in inert sterile medium because they do not have anything else to rely.

Read rockwool and trichoderma on google. People who grow successfully in rockwool have microflora in their water or greenhouse that suppresses pathogens. Otherwise it is a plain disaster.

I personally don't because the mix I use holds a lot of water with my Phrag watering routine and if I don't let them mostly dry out for a day or two after being wet for a week or two, rot can start to appear on the lowest leaves. The high humidity they get(80% average) doesn't help either, but a day or two drying out time has seemed to work better than any fungicide I've used. I would never reccomend giving caudatum types a long period in wet conditions, and they are grown more like dendrobiums or cattleyas in my collection, though in the same phrag mix. Again this is just my routine for my conditions.
As a side note, i've had a richteri growing in a jar of water for over a year now. I don't change the water and keep it topped up level with just below the bottom of the plant. I also add a few drops of MelaFix to the water every week so the water doesn't get scummy with bacteria and the like. I wouldn't say it looks as well grown as the one in a pot, but it is alive and growing and good for a conversation piece.

Jon

Personally, I don't grow mine in standing water because I don't feel comfortable putting a bunch in a communal tray and saucers take up too much space. If I were to do so (and i know someone would've added this idea anyway), I would grow all in standing water except for the caudatum (long-petalled) types. Just my 2 cents

--Stephen

Stephen,

My caudatum was grown sitting in water and is spectacular with many growths! Some of my other phrags don't do as well in the water ie; besseae type.

All the bigger Phrags in modified s/h(normal pot sitting in a saucer of water).
Smaller 1.s in s/h , oh yes 1 still in rockwool.

Suits me & my conditions.

Some I do. Some I don't. It depends. I don't use communal trays.

I grow most in saucers of water.Some bessaes crosses like it-but usually straight bessaes don't.Take a look at the root system here on Sorcerers Apprentice that I repotted yesterday.Obviously it likes the water :)
http://img14.imgspot.com/u/05/211/08/DSC01110.JPG

The long-petaled phrags are usually epyphytic or found on cliffs, so although I have them sitting in trays, I don't keep the trays constantly filled. They may have water in them for a few days, and after they go dry I may wait a few days before refilling.

The more terrestrial species are often found in areas where the water table is close to the surface. (Stream sides and boggs). I keep the trays filled on a more continuous basis for these.

I may also select for taller pots, aircone pots, or baskets.

I grow most of mine standing in water, and a few in Rockwool, and they seem happy so far

I grow most in saucers of water.Some bessaes crosses like it-but usually straight bessaes don't.Take a look at the root system here on Sorcerers Apprentice that I repotted yesterday.Obviously it likes the water :)
http://img14.imgspot.com/u/05/211/08/DSC01110.JPG

Isn't it interesting that all the roots grow in the same counter clock wise fashion? If I'm not mistaken, I think that always happens, theres some scientific explination.... I wonder if they go the other way south of the equator? Coriolis effect I think its called....

Kyle

Isn't it interesting that all the roots grow in the same counter clock wise fashion? If I'm not mistaken, I think that always happens, theres some scientific explination.... I wonder if they go the other way south of the equator? Coriolis effect I think its called....

Kyle

That's a great question!
Perhaps our friends from Down Under could tell us?

*chuckle* Just about everything is backwards down under, it's Oz after all!! :poke:

*chuckle* Just about everything is backwards down under, it's Oz after all!! :poke:

Ya, and they think the same of us! :poke:

Just had a look at one of the Cymbidiums in the house, and the roots are the same, but will check one or two in the morning

Great looking roots Jane. :clap:

*chuckle* Just about everything is backwards down under, it's Oz after all!! :poke:

Not backwards, just a little "slow" due to bureaucratic nonsense and red tape. :D (although one of our people is in space right now you know?)

I've only just got a few Phrag crosses, two of which are besseae crosses. I'll let you see how root growth goes when they've settled in. Growing season (Spring) officially starts in 4 weeks. Waiting, waiting ...... :)

I put my Phrag Grande in S/H three weeks ago now. The new growths leaves seem to have widened and deepened in colour. It has two new growths about 4mm high that are looking mighty healthy also. I have no (PH/acidity) measuring equipment but am trying to do everything right by the plant as well as the others I have. I've only ever "tried" my hand at Phrags once before about 5 or 6 years ago. That was a dismal failure as I "drowned" the plants (they were Calurums) after being told they always like it wet. This forum is great for giving pointers in to the diffrent plant "habits".

When I was younger, my parents were amazed because I could make "anything" grow. My problem was that I had a hard time keeping it alive after that. I love a challenge and this helps heaps.

Cheers
Stephan

This kinda belongs in the "you know you're addicted" thread...

the only way for me to engage SO in orchid related discussion is to bring up physics. Therefore, we discussed the coriolis effect over dinner last evening. That would be a no. Not strong enough of a force to cause the roots of plants to grow a different direction.

I grow all of my paphs and phrags in semi-hydro culture, and they thrive. They get lots of air to the root system, but also have a constant supply of water and nutrients without sharing the nutrient bath, as with trays.

Rob, I think that in the S/H environment, dying roots tend to be broken down by aerobic bacteria rather than anaerobic, and they simply become finely fragmented bits that wash out as you water.

I've been growing that way for years, and to the best of my knowledge, have never experiences a pythium attach.

I don't have a lot of Phrags anymore, but I do grow them in standing water using the bark mix I get from Ackers. When I repot, the medium is sometimes rather "funky" and just beginning to turn mucky but the roots are never rotting. I repot them annually and one I've been repotting every three or four months as an experiment. It's growing like a weed and is sending out a new growth.

I blame the coriolis effect on my inability to get directly to the front door after certain evenings out. 8)