View Full Version : i need help please!!
nyorchids July 25th, 2005, 12:01 PM i niticed my paph. tigrinum with some rust looking stuff on it i was reading an older thread of something similar and didnt like what i read. also looked it up on the internet and it saying that it is incurable and all plants should be disposed of if i had to throw away all 50 of my paphs i dont know what i would do here is a pic of the plant not the best shot but good enough to see what is going on. if you need another shot let me know i will post it asap i have it seperated in the same room what should i do? what exactly is it please help i am freaking out :(
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/nikkiandstan/Picture236.jpg
Paphgirl July 25th, 2005, 12:05 PM Stan,
I don't think it is rust, but let's see what others have to say.
Paphraguy July 25th, 2005, 12:17 PM With me being color deficient, it is very hard for me to tell but I don't think it is rust also. Does it have an odor, do you know?
nyorchids July 25th, 2005, 12:17 PM here are some better pics
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/nikkiandstan/Picture242.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/nikkiandstan/Picture243.jpg
RickL July 25th, 2005, 12:17 PM Any smells?
What is the humidity % at the plant. Tigrinums can be picky about this.
nyorchids July 25th, 2005, 12:19 PM there is no sign of odor
RickL July 25th, 2005, 12:21 PM Is this the oldest growth? It doesnt look too bad. Cetainly nothing that needs to be trashed.
Paphraguy July 25th, 2005, 12:22 PM To me, it looks like the older leaves are just dying off which is normal. How long have you had it if you don't mind me asking?
nyorchids July 25th, 2005, 12:24 PM the humidity is around 45-50 % because of the air conditioner but i have been watering more also the majority is on the oldest growth but there is a few spots on the newer growth it is a 2 growth plant any ideas what it is or how to treat it?
nyorchids July 25th, 2005, 12:25 PM i have had the plant in my care for about 4 months
RickL July 25th, 2005, 12:36 PM NY
Before I implemented humidity control this is where I would loose plants to root rot. Trying to compensate for low humidity by watering more.
On the one hand I agree with Pete about normal loss of old leaves, but with tigrinum mine are very sensitive to humidity <70% and would shed and add leaves allot. Now with humidity locked in they are growing better and adding leaves without shedding the older ones. If that growth has not flowered it should not be dropping leaves yet, and may be trying to accomodate some new growth in a dry environment by shedding older growth.
Paphraguy July 25th, 2005, 12:37 PM Can you grow it outside where it can receive more light, humidity and air movement? Air conditioning is not good for them, I'm afraid.
Paphgirl July 25th, 2005, 12:40 PM I have had this on some of my plants and also think it is humidity related.
Make sure that any A/C vents near the plants are shut, and get a humidifier if necessary. It will at least help some.
In my growing area, I have a closed vent under the table, but I leave the windows open wide (upper and lower casements)
so, the room gets pretty warm and stays quite humid at this time of year. Generally I'm averaging 60-70% with
this system.
consettbay2003 July 25th, 2005, 12:44 PM I would suggest spraying the entire plant with an insecticidal soap at 5 day intervals ( 3 applications ). The damage looks like it could be spider mites.
nyorchids July 25th, 2005, 12:56 PM i will steal my humidifier back from my wife to put it in the orchid room. i am always afraid to put my plants outside but there is a fan in the room circulating the air and the a/c unit is on the other side of the room. i will raise the humidity and see what that does the plant has not flowered yed but looks like it is going to take on another growth thanks for all the imput does anyone else agree with the spider mite idea?
Ernie July 25th, 2005, 12:57 PM Just to be on the safe side, separate that puppy from the rest of your collection. After that, I would suggest using the prophylactic anti-fungals as suggested.
Paphgirl July 25th, 2005, 01:08 PM Yes, cannot hurt to check for mites as well. Run a cotton ball over the undersides of the leaves and base of the plant. I find that if there are mites you'll see red specks on the cotton. I usually run another cotton pad soaked in alcohol over the plant if I see any red specks. Just to be sure.
If you find anything, the insecticidal soap also is a good plan!
paphreek July 25th, 2005, 01:16 PM The damage looks like it could be spider mites, but they are more common in the winter in temperate areas(dryer humidity).
Take a kleenex and rub the entire under side of an affected leaf. If the kleenex shows orange or brown, black specks, it is most likely mites.
Better still, send me that plant to care for. It might take 5 or 6 blooms before the problem is licked! :poke: (just filling in for Tadd)
nyorchids July 25th, 2005, 01:21 PM did the swab and got specks of red and black they were not moving? what is the best treatment for it?
Littlefrog July 25th, 2005, 01:33 PM did the swab and got specks of red and black they were not moving? what is the best treatment for it?
Horticultural (ultrafine) oil works pretty well. Most pesticides do not work particularly well on mites, unless they are specifically labelled for them. Oil is just a smothering agent. I found something labelled SM90 oil at the hydroponics store, evidently the SM stands for "Spider Mites", although I was unconvinced by the label suggesting that I add it to my water. Smelled nice though.
I'd just get regular ultrafine oil (it is cheaper). Should be able to find it at Mall Wart or Home Despot. As a bonus, it makes your leaves all shiney.
Ernie July 25th, 2005, 01:39 PM But still seperate that plant from the rest so it doesn't spread (if it hasn't already) and spray with a prophylactic anti-fungal. Any damage to a leaf is a target for disease so it means you're taking no chances.
SteveT July 25th, 2005, 01:41 PM This could easily be something sucking the juices out of the plants. I suggest Enstar II. If you do not have it, use a miticide and be sure to wipe it on the undersides of the leaves and in the base of the leaves but not in the axil itself unless you have the plant in high air circulation and medium to low humidity so it evaporates.
nyorchids July 25th, 2005, 02:24 PM thanks everyone :D
nyorchids July 25th, 2005, 02:43 PM This could easily be something sucking the juices out of the plants. I suggest Enstar II. If you do not have it, use a miticide and be sure to wipe it on the undersides of the leaves and in the base of the leaves but not in the axil itself unless you have the plant in high air circulation and medium to low humidity so it evaporates.
where can i get enstar II on the web?
also what is the best anti fungal?
Littlefrog July 25th, 2005, 04:59 PM This could easily be something sucking the juices out of the plants. I suggest Enstar II. If you do not have it, use a miticide and be sure to wipe it on the undersides of the leaves and in the base of the leaves but not in the axil itself unless you have the plant in high air circulation and medium to low humidity so it evaporates.
where can i get enstar II on the web?
also what is the best anti fungal?
Roberts Flower Supply (Orchidmix.com) sells Enstar. It is pricey stuff, regardless of who you get it from. Wayne is a good guy, though. I don't use antifungals, so I'm not going to guess on that. I usually use cinnamon for small rot problems, and prayer for big ones. A little air movement is a good fungicide, a lot of air movement is an excellent one...
RickL July 25th, 2005, 07:13 PM I've heard good stuff about the ultrfine oil, but have not tried it myself.
I also like Robert's for stuff like Enstar. Wayne is cool.
Note that between leaf drop and spider mites you have 2 hints for low humidity, so after applying your treatments at the lower humidity (like Steve says) boost it up.
consettbay2003 July 26th, 2005, 02:21 AM I prefer Safers Insecticidal Soap for dealing with mites. It is about as non toxic as you can get, I don't even wear gloves when I use it, inexpensive, and mites do not develop a resistance to it. Mites are notorious for developing resistance to miticides very quickly i.e. after one or two sprayings of miticides !!! , and then you get a reinfestation from h*ll.
Superfine Oil could be used but it clogs the stomata of orchids if used too often. Remember orchid stomata do not open and close but remain open at all times. If you use Oil make sure the plant is in a cool shaded area or you can cook the plant because it will be unable to breath.
Treating mite infestation requires 3 treatments at apporximately 5 day intervals to kill the adults and the subsequent hatching eggs.
P.S. Definitely mite damage. Possibly some minor fungal lesions secondary to the mite damage.
elpaninaro July 28th, 2005, 10:28 PM I would suggest spraying the entire plant with an insecticidal soap at 5 day intervals ( 3 applications ). The damage looks like it could be spider mites.
I am with you consettbay,
I might be wrong, but this looks like spider mite damage to me too. Not pretty looking, but nowhere near fatal at this point.
Paphgirl July 28th, 2005, 10:42 PM My lowii had a similar look, and I alcoholed the mites, and then sprayed w/ safers. No more mites, and now it is blooming. Although I think it has some issues.....:?
nyorchids July 28th, 2005, 10:52 PM used alcohol and safers arrived today!
TADD July 29th, 2005, 07:39 AM Stan, I hate to be the Bearer of Bad News: That plant is done for! You will need to send it too me so I can dispose of quickly and quietly. If it is not handled correctly you could lose everything! :poke: Send it to me! :evil: I wouldn't worry too much, the above suggestions sound great! Baby this one! I was on the microfungus column, but what do I know? Good luck! Let us know the outcome.
nyorchids July 29th, 2005, 10:10 AM it has its first treatment of safers and the humidity is back up but if that doesnt work its yours :poke:
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