Ron, could you please post a picture of a parviflorum going dormant? I have only one cyp and have therefore no comparison. I am still trying to figure out their cycle.

Sorry, need much more turoring if this cyp is to survive.

If I want to post a picture of it, can it be done on this site or only on the Orchid Gallery?

Kind Regards,

Helga.

Ron, could you please post a picture of a parviflorum going dormant? I have only one cyp and have therefore no comparison. I am still trying to figure out their cycle.

Sorry, need much more turoring if this cyp is to survive.

If I want to post a picture of it, can it be done on this site or only on the Orchid Gallery?

Kind Regards,

Helga.

Hey Helga,

Not Ron, but I'm sure he'll answer soon. In the meantime, if you want to see some shots of Cyps going dormant, take a look at this link (http://www.cypripedium.de/forum/messages/2325.html). The desired coloration should start as a yellowing eventually ending in light brown. If the plant goes directly from green to brown or black it is not having a chance to properly transfer resources from the leaves to the roots and rhizome. Such plants often have a problem with their roots, but they don't necessarily die.

No problem posting shots on this forum about Cyps that I can see.

Tom

That helps a lot Tom, very much appreciate it. Let's see if I am able to bring a photo of my cyp as it looked 2 weeks ago up.

Hi, Helga,

I see that Tom got you a photo! If your plant is changing color like this then going to brown, that is the normal route. If it went from green directly to brown then something was bothering it - but it may still be fine. End of season things like very hot weather or drought can make them change very quickly but not affect their health. I would look at the rhizome to see if the roots are firm and whether there is a growth bud for next year.

Best,

Ron

Hi Ron,

thanks for responding. The browning of the leaves have occurred over the summer, not all at once. If I take the cyp out of it's pot to check the roots -not that I know what a growing bud looks like- should I, upon re-potting, put it into the refridgerator, or let it be out until the weather gets colder? We still have up to 85 deg. here in Oregon.

Thanks.

Helga.

The browning of the leaves have occurred over the summer, not all at once. If I take the cyp out of it's pot to check the roots -not that I know what a growing bud looks like- should I, upon re-potting, put it into the refridgerator, or let it be out until the weather gets colder? We still have up to 85 deg. here in Oregon.

Hey Helga, by your description, the plant definitely was stressed by something. New growth buds will be unmistakable: bright white knobs growing off the rhizome, usually, but not always, adjacent to this year's growth. The roots and rhizome should be firm, not mushy or soft. The roots should be at least a brown color with no blackened and broken ends; preferably they should be creamy colored. If you see any black, soft parts then carefully remove these. Repot and don't store in the fridge. In your area winters are strong enough to vernalize it, so I wouldn't put it in the fridge, but rather in a shady, protected spot.

Hi, Helga,

Tom is right - I will be doing some repotting tomorrow so I will take a picture of what you will be looking for in terms of a growth bud.

Ron

Looking forward to the pix, Ron.

Yippee Tom, I found the roots to be creamy, nicely spread out; also 2 white growing buds.
I re-poted in the same medium (mostly lecca pellets), plus a handful of dry forest loam (looks like decomposted pine needles). Also added a couple of handfuls of the same stuff on top. Maybe I should have used regular pine needles instead?

As for winterizing. It does freeze here. Can the pot be stored under our 6 ft.eave overhang, wrapped in bubble wrap, then put in a larger flower container?
Do I need to check it? How often? What should I expect before I can put it under lights in my garage?

Helga.

Yippee Tom, I found the roots to be creamy, nicely spread out; also 2 white growing buds.
I re-poted in the same medium (mostly lecca pellets), plus a handful of dry forest loam (looks like decomposted pine needles). Also added a couple of handfuls of the same stuff on top. Maybe I should have used regular pine needles instead?

As for winterizing. It does freeze here. Can the pot be stored under our 6 ft.eave overhang, wrapped in bubble wrap, then put in a larger flower container?
Do I need to check it? How often? What should I expect before I can put it under lights in my garage?

Helga.

Well that's good news. The exact medium used is not so important as long as it is free draining and remains moist year round. Also, I would fertilize regularly during the growth cycle for best growth. A 10-10-10 or less liquid fertilizer at 1/4 strength should do fine, say once a month until September.

You can put it under your overhang as long as it doesn't get any sunshine. The bubble wrap shouldn't be necessary if temperatures don't get too low. Again, be sure it remains moist throughout the winter. Growth should commence around late April. Don't force the plant by bringing it inside. Better to let it naturally start growing in a cool, shady spot. At that point you can move it to a brighter location.

Tom, I do not understand. "Growth should commence late April?" The cyp leaves are already light brown; only a 1/4 in. of the stem is still green. Doe sthat mean the cyp is still growing.... until April? Do the leaves fall off by themselves?
The last 3 winter the cyp was put in a paper bag and kept in darkness in the fridge until Jan., then under lights in the house until the outside night temps stayed at 50 deg.
If I leave it outside does it need to be covered to keep it dark? Surely I need to protect from frost, right?
If I ever get this growing cycle figured out, I will be greatly relieved!

Thanks a million, Tom.

Helga

Helga, Cypripediums are largely cold temperate perennial plants and therefore are naturally adapted to cold climates. They typically go dormant in the fall, usually around mid-October. During the winter months they go into a dormancy and require no special care except to make sure they don't dry out completely. In the spring, when the average air temperature gets above 50F or so, they will begin to grow again. Growth is rapid and they flower within a month or less time.

Please see this excellent article (http://www.gardensatposthill.com/website/Cypripedium%20overview.htm) by Ron Burch on the cultivation of the genus. Growing them in pots is actually a bit difficult compared to outdoor beds in my opinion, so you may consider that option too.

Ron, since I checked the roots and re-potted the cyp. it has completely dried up. I don't know if I did something wrong while re-potting or if the orchid had already begun it's dormant stage. I do hope, all that goes on below the medium level stays healthy. Should I continue to keep the pot moist and, eventually, protect from frost even though the leaves are dead-like?
In the meantime we found and old sink. Can it be filled with a mixture of wood chips and pumice (same as I use in growing orchids), charcoal, perlite and one third of (top 2") forest duff, then burried in the ground? I suppose he will have to drill more holes into the sides of the sink for better drainage?

I do hope you'll see my post and so are able to answer my questions.

Thank you very much.

Helga.

I unpotted the cyp a couple of weeks ago. The roots and it's 2 whitish new growth under the surface looked great. I added some fresh media and put it back in it's pot. Several days later I noticed the plant rapidly losing the last green on it's leaves. Did I do something wrong in the re-potting process?

Ron suggested to frost-protect and keep the cyp growing until April. What does that mean? Should I continue to give the orchid a little water throughout the winter, even though it's leaves have dried out. How does one know how much?

Thank you for responding.

Tom, since I looked at the roots the cyp's leaves died completely within 3 days. If exposing the roots was the cause, I can only hope life under the soil surface continues.
I will keep the cyp moist (not wet) until the temps get quite low. You suggested to leave it outside, so I will protect it from frost and leave it under the 6-ft.eave, next to the house.
I stated earlier, that the last 3 winters the cyp went into the refridgerator. This is a new method and I hope it works.

Thanks for responding, Tom.

Helga,

I don't think you did anything wrong. The plant should go dormant soon anyway, so most likely it has developed the necessary energy reserves for future growth. To keep things simple, I would suggest you grow it like any woodland perennial garden plant except to make sure the growing medium remains open with sharp drainage. Once established it shouldn't be fussy at all.