Paphiopedilum Vanda M. Pearman [bellatulum x delenatii] if I have done my research correct this Paphiopedilum is a Brachypetalum, what I am not sure of is the culture of Brachypetalum, if I read the books right this plant will need a winter rest. Wherein I keep the plant dry, my book say from Dec to Feb this plant requires a rest period. When Paphiopedilum are in a rest period how much water should they receive. I no a rest period for Dendrobium you don’t water. But Paphiopedilum need some water even in rest is that right.
One more question as for lime, I live in Missouri and I water with well water.
We have hard water and it is high in lime. I never added any line to my mix for this reason. I have not had my water tested, just lived in Missouri all my life and I know the water has lime. Is there some way to tell if ones plants are getting enough lime?
I have been growing the Maudies type Paphiopedilum for some time, but over the pass year have purchase many new Paphiopedilum and I don’t want to kill them. The more I read the more mixed up I seam to get. I have The Slipper Orchids by Catherine Cash, a very good book but sometime confusing to me. Think I am getting old ... Ha

Your plant is not a brachypetalum plant which is a section in the paphiopedilum genera , no you plant is a hybrid. Resting paphiopedilum plants is just lowering temperatures and reducing water (understand less frequent watering), in that period (winter for most species) the plant does not grow or produce flowers so it does not need that much water but it should be allowed to dry completre out.

Finally I would not rely too much on books and especially paphs books, (I've never seen a paph book mentionning that P. randsii was difficult to grow so......)

Your own experience really counts here as growing spaces (cultural conditions) is quite variable


good growing

correction:
I wrote
>but it should be allowed to dry completre out.

I meant

but it should NOT be allowed to dry completely out



Alkalinity is not much an issue just use your well water

Your plant is not a brachypetalum plant which is a section in the paphiopedilum genera , no you plant is a hybrid. Resting paphiopedilum plants is just lowering temperatures and reducing water (understand less frequent watering), in that period (winter for most species) the plant does not grow or produce flowers so it does not need that much water but it should be allowed to dry completre out.

Finally I would not rely too much on books and especially paphs books, (I've never seen a paph book mentionning that P. randsii was difficult to grow so......)

Your own experience really counts here as growing spaces (cultural conditions) is quite variable


good growing

Umm, 'the dry complete out' has to be a typo and should be...'never let dry out completely.'

Here's my view on it for what it's worth. A plant uses available light and moisture and warmth and nutrients to prosper. If there is a period where all growth naturally stops, an over-abundance of any of the factors can cause significant problems.

I agree with both of you guys! One of my favorite bellatulum primaries! Good luck!

All the books I have list bellatulum in subgenera brachypetalum and delanatii in subgen parvisepalum.

However the climate and geology of the origional parent species is pretty different. Delenatii is from consistantly warm humid climates over acidic geology, and bellatulum is from seasonally variable climates over limestone. So the resulting hybrid is tollerant of much wider ranging conditions than either of the parents. I would try to stay middle of the road on growing conditions for this hybrid and not worry too much about a winter rest. I have seen allot of delanatii and its hybrids doing well undoor lights indoors.

As far as your well water goes, find out the conductivity or TDS value. I live over karst limestone in TN and my well water also has allot of calcium (lime). But it also has allot of other salts including sodium. So I have not had good results using my well water, and use RO. I wouldn't use water with a conductivity over 200mmhos/cm.

I would never let Paphs dry out completely, I don't really give any of my orchids a rest per say. I treat them the same all year round, they bloom when they want. I usually have my paphs bloom 2 times a year, summer and winter. :-dance:

Thanks, this is the best site. I understand now and it is kind of like the old sayings if something is not broke don’t fix it. All my Paphiopedilum grow fine and are all old enough to flower so I wanted to check to see if I was doing things right. So they all will flower in time. The Paphiopedilum Jade Dragon sent up a spike has a small bud that I do not think is ever going to open!( :poke: )

Thanks for the help

Paphs can do that from time to time....take way too much time. I have an amreniacum hybrid just sitting on top of it's spike for about 3 weeks now. Frustrating!

like Rick said different requirments for the crosses . Look at the leaves they will tell you what you need to know. if there limp and yellow too much water - if there curled on the edges there dry .if they stand up nicely in a fan then there ok -- if your not sure about them needing water mist them -- but do remember paphs do there growing in the cooler months . and then they dont need to be staved of water . look at the place it comes from look at where you are and work out a balance. Sorry but good growing means homework Billie

thanks billie I like the way you put that info very easy to understand.

I have always followed the literatures advice and watered my Brachy's a lot less than my other Paphs during winter. About half as much. It is possible they even dry out towards the end of the period. I've never had a problem. Large healthy plants with good root systems. Although as said before Vanda M Pearman is a little different as it is not pure Brachy.

David

I have not noticed paphs ever need rest, because their metabolism is so slow already. If you are talking about rest to make them bloom, that is just strength and shock.

From what I have read, there is a view out their though that Brachy's are relatively short-lived if not given a rest period. They are incredibly easy to grow and flower for the first few years but harder to grow into large specimen plants. I haven't been growing mine long enough for any personal experience.

David

I have always followed the literatures advice and watered my Brachy's a lot less than my other Paphs during winter. About half as much. It is possible they even dry out towards the end of the period. I've never had a problem. Large healthy plants with good root systems. Although as said before Vanda M Pearman is a little different as it is not pure Brachy.

David

For what it is worth, I treat my brachys (and parvis) pretty much the same all year round. But, I try to pot them in a mix that is a little more open than my usual paph mix. So, a little more rock or charcoal, everything else the same. That way, they dry out a little faster than my other paphs. Not a lot faster, but it seems to be enough.

For me, it is easier to play with potting medium than adjust my watering schedule. Everything gets watered at pretty much the same time, or it doesn't get watered at all.

Little frog… I think that is a good idea a mix that will drain a little faster. As I to, must water all on the same day.

Exactly what Rob said! I also make my Brachy mix a liitle less moisture retentive so I can water plants on the same schedule.